DAY 3: Gap of Dunloe and Boat Ride through the Lakes of Killarney

This day is Ireland may have been one of the highlights of our entire trip. While many people visit the major attractions like Killarney, after talking to friends who had visited Ireland, no one had heard of or visited the Gap of Dunloe. I spent some time reading through travel forums on ideas of what to do while abroad and this mysterious Gap of Dunloe kept coming up. One of the comments stood out when he commented that the day he spent in the Gap, hiking through and taking the pony trap with his new bride was still one of his favorite memories 20 years later. I immediately planned the trip, booked the necessary guides and tours, and Adam and I gifted this beautiful day to my in-laws for Christmas. We had the most perfect 65 degree sunny blue bird day for this adventure and we all loved every aspect of the trip. 

Ross Castle

The day went like this

1. Meet at the Old Weir Lodge in downtown Killarney
2. A bus takes you to Ross Castle
3. From Ross Castle, you hop on a 1.5 hour boat ride through the lakes and rivers of Killarney National Park
4. From there, you have lunch at an old hunting lodge, Lord Brandon's Cottage
5. From the cottage, you have the option to hike the 7 miles through the gap (a now paved tiny single lane road), or hire one of the ponymen for a pony trap (horse and carriage ride) down through the gap.
6. The hike or ponytrap ride takes you to Kate Kearney's Cottage. From here, you can grab a coffee or a bite and wait for the bus to take you back to your car at Old Wier Lodge. 
   You can book the tour here

The viator portion of the tour ($50 per person) covers the parking, bus transport to the start of the boats, the boat ride through the lakes, and the bus ride back down the other side of the Gap of Dunloe. You either walk the gap or pay for the pony traps at the extra cost all detailed below. While we did the loop counter clockwise starting at Ross Castle with the boat ride through the lakes, the tour sometimes starts clockwise starting at Kate Kearney's Cottage and with the Gap of Dunloe. Either way, the ponymen and boats both leave around 2 but after that, you are on your own as far as a way to get through the lakes or through the gap. 

Ross Castle

Ross Castle and Boat Ride through the Lakes and Rivers of Killarney
We started with the boat ride departing at Ross Castle. Ross Castle itself is beautiful and I highly recommend making some time to go back and see the castle at a later date. You will see the boats waiting by the docks and this is where the day starts. The boat ride takes you through the 3 lakes and 2 rivers of Killarney National Park. The 1.5 hr trip is absolutely breath taking and depending on water levels and weather conditions, you may need to get out and walk a short section or two. You will pass by "The Meeting of the Waters", Dinis Cottage, the Old Weir Bridge, Brickeen Bridge and Innisfallen Island. Our guide was amazing and was constantly giving us fun facts about the park, the invasive rhododendron, and facts about Innisfallen Island where we stopped to walk around for a few minutes.

Boat Ride through Lakes of Killarney

Boat Ride through Lakes and Rivers of Killarney

Boat Ride through Lakes and Rivers of Killarney

The boat ride was challenging at times with the kids (small vessel and not always easy to sit still for that long) but I have no regrets. To see the National Park from its famous lakes is special and a beautiful way to experience the beauty of Ireland. There are no bathrooms available and if you are traveling with kids, bring snacks, water, and sunscreen. Thankfully our kids hung tough just long enough and were excited to stretch their legs after the boat ride. 

Lord Brandon's Cottage
Lord Brandon's Cottage is an old hunting lodge which now operates as a cafe and launching point for the Gap of Dunloe. After the boat ride, you have an hour to have lunch, snacks, and drinks at the cottage, and to use the bathroom. We had an hour to relax here before meeting up with the pony men to bring us through the 7 mile stretch of the Gap of Dunloe. You need cash for the cottage, and you will also need cash for the pony men. You do not book them through the tour group but instead, book them right at Kate Kearney's Cottage or at Lord Brandon's Cottage.

Walking a part of the Gap of Dunloe

Road through the Gap of Dunloe

Road through the Gap of Dunloe

The views from the hunting lodge

Gap of Dunloe
The Gap of Dunloe is one of the most beautiful and peaceful stretches of road. While cars are technically allowed on the road, it is a one lane road and vehicle traffic is highly discouraged during the busy daytime hours. Not only is the two way road one lane, it is shared with hikers, bikers, and horse carriages. If I didn't have the kids, I would have happily walked the 7 miles road that is the Gap of Dunloe. We had the kids and grandparents so instead, we opted for the Jaunting Cars for the 1 to 1.5 hour ride. For $35 a person, you get in a cart pulled by a horse that fits four adults (we managed to also squeeze in the two kids).

Pony Trap through the Gap of Dunloe

We were able to walk some stretch of the gap, especially the steeper sections (which we were happy to do) to ease the load for our horse Billy. Before departing on our trip, I had read mixed reviews about the ponymen being elusive about the price and having to negotiate, but our driver was nothing short of respectful, kind, and straightforward with the pricing. I also asked a ton of questions regarding the welfare of the horses (work schedule, winters off, how far they lived, how often their shoes were changed, if he was in a field or stall etc) and you could tell there was a mutual love and respect between the drivers and their horses. The horses do one trip a day, heading out in the morning to the hunting lodge, taking a break for an hour or so, and returning back to Kate Kearney's cottage in the afternoon. The ponymen in the Gap of Dunloe go back many generations and it was fascinating to hear about the history of the area and how long the horses have taken guests through the Gap of Dunloe. 

Pony Trap through the Gap of Dunloe

Ice cream at Kate Kearney's Cottage

We later drove the road at night to watch the sunset when all the hikers, bikers, and horses were off the road. The photos of this area do not do it justice, and it was so quaint and peaceful to spend the evening in the gap. The Gap of Dunloe will end at Kate Kearney's Cottage where you can get a meal, snack, or ice cream before hopping back on the bus and returning to the lodge to get your car. If you chose to visit the Gap of Dunloe without the boat tour, you will have to walk both ways, take the jaunting cars both ways, or do some combination of the two. There is no roadway to get back from Lord Brandons Castle and your only option is a boat ride back (the boats leave by 2pm). If you miss the boats, plan on a 7 mile trek back down the Gap of Dunloe to get back to Kate Kearney's Cottage. 

Ireland is absolutely stunning and the Gap of Dunloe is one of the prettiest places in County Kerry. To experience Ireland on a horse and buggy, on foot, and by boat was something special that I can't recommend enough.