New England (and New York) Fall Road Trip - Must See Sights

Once September hits in New England, I start planning my favorite getaways. Days spent hiking, evenings spent camping, nights in cozy cabins and morning in the crisp New England Air. Leaf peeping and scenic drives, apple picking and fairs - all the good things we are so ready for after a toasty humid New England summer.

Last month, someone asked for some advice on planning a fall New England road trip and I was embarrassed to admit that post didn't exist yet. I quickly got to work, going state by state to share some of my favorite places in the northeast.

Waterville Valley Ski Resort/Mount Tecumseh

Wittenberg Mountain - Phoenicia - Catskills, New York

Adam and I have been trying to balance our love for the outdoors with our need to finish this damn house. If you are new to KW, we bought a complete fixer-upper in May and have spent the last 6 months taking down walls and rebuilding them back up. In all honesty, it was well-timed with the virus and everyone being homebound but it has also been a strain on my love of the outdoors and long weekends in the mountains.

We made a fair compromise with the trails and our renovation when we decided Saturday would be spent in the Catskills (close enough for a day trip, far enough to be in mountains) and work on the house Sunday (Garage/Basement cleanout day!)  We left early on Saturday morning armed with coffee and packed sandwiches, excited to spend the day in the Catskills, and enjoy a new hike on new trails.  I did some quick research online looking for a medium level hike between 4 and 10 miles with some decent elevation gain (and a view!) and stumbled on Wittenberg and Cornell Mountain.  

This not That (Littleton and Route 116) - Fall in New Hampshire

One of my favorite topics on Katie Wanders is a "this not that" sort of series.  It basically takes some of your popular spots and trips and gives you a much better less-crowded alternative. This post is featuring two of these things because when you hit a spot in one of its peak seasons, you need to learn to adjust. 

Mt. Major Hike - Lake Winnipesaukee, New Hampshire

If you need to know anything about me, it's that I am a planner.  I love to plan trips, weekends, hikes, my day, you name it.  Going into the weekend, I had a list of 48ers I wanted to tackle but instead, we altered plans.  The only glitch was Adam also had a list of things he wanted to do.  The new unplanned plan for the weekend was Adam had a day to pick what to do, and I would pick the second day.  The only issue with my shot at compromise was my day was the second one which involved some very sore legs after Adam's day and a 4.5-hour drive back home.  

1) All hiking aside, this was my first time staying at a bed and breakfast and I really wanted to try the breakfast (10/10, excellent decision).  

2) Staying for scheduled breakfast meant missing an early start at any of the trailheads - necessary for a parking spot during a fall hiking weekend in the Whites.  

3) On top of our later start, our legs were sore from hiking the Franconia Ridge so another big hike was also off the table.  

4) Judging by an attempted drive through Lincoln, I knew the smaller/shorter hikes would be mobbed 

And so, we totally changed our plans and decided to pack up after breakfast and start heading south. 

I typed in "Best Hikes in New Hampshire" and started reading through the list of hikes outside of the Whites.  I quickly came across a name I had never heard, "Mt. Major".  This hike took you up to a peak overlooking Lake Winnipesaukee and at a 3.5-mile hike gaining about 1,100 feet of elevation, this wouldn't kill our sore legs.  This hike also offered lovely views at the cost of just a short detour from our ride home - it all looked promising.  And so, we pulled up to the trailhead to see about 200 cars lining the road and sighed as we realized you can't really escape the crowds of New Hampshire during leaf-peeping season.  

Mt. Pisgah Loop Hike - Lake Willoughby, Vermont

The temperatures were in the low 30s as I finished off my coffee and traveled across lonely dirt roads in northern Vermont, away from the quaint little village of Island Pond.  You know the dirt roads I'm talking about, narrow paths that cut through the woodsy untouched patches of Vermont.  These dirt roads are often lonely in the best way possible sometimes dotted with a cabin or two, or sweet houses or properties set back in the woods.  As you drive these dirt roads up and down Vermont, you can't help but stop and wonder how people get to their houses when the snow starts to fall.  This time of year, these dirt roads are an oasis, quiet enough to pull over and take in a picture and enjoy the view and you can drive along and feel like you are in a Lifetime romance movie.  It was the last of the leaves in Northern Vermont and it was just Olive and I at the tail end of my Kingdom Trails weekend, on a mission to catch some more golden hues and check out a new hike in the Northeast Kingdom. 

Before I left Connecticut, I did some research on some of the best hikes in Vermont and was happy to see one of these highly-rated hikes was only 20 minutes north of Kingdom Trails.  Mt. Pisgah in Westmore, Vermont makes the "Must Hike List" for its bird's eye views of Lake Willoughby and mountain vistas featuring Vermont, New Hampshire, and Canada.  It's a lovely little hike that is a moderate effort, a day hike that can be done as an "out and back" or as a loop hike if you don't mind a road walk.  Who minds a road walk when you have the mountains on one side and a lake on the other.  I did not. 

An Introvert's Afternoon in Island Pond, Vermont

You are going to be surprised to read this, but let me share a little secret with you.  I actually consider myself to be an introvert... an outgoing introvert if we are being precise.  It wasn't always obvious to me but the older I got the more I started to realize how true this was.

I'll cancel plans (especially in groups) and a lot of the times if I don't cancel, I sometimes secretly hope you will.  I can talk to anyone, but I despise small talk.  I love deep meaningful one on one conversation more of a one on one style.  Crowds... they make me incredibly anxious.  Social settings drain me and after a long week of work, I genuinely prefer to be home on a Friday night (often myself or with Adam).  I feel like I have an old soul and it's home alone doing things around the house at 7 in bed by 9 with a book when I recharge.  I am genuinely happy to do things on my own, and more importantly, need that time to do things on my own.  So yes, I can talk to anyone and you can pin me as outgoing without a doubt but at my core, I'm actually an introvert. 

Hiking Bear Mountain - Highlands, New York

It was still peak foliage in the northern/central regions of New England and we only had a day to spend in the woods.  Saturday was filled with pumpkin carving and Adams nephew's birthday party (and my first time to Stew Leonards, still not sure how I feel about).  So with the weekend commitment of Saturday around Connecticut, Sunday had its limitations.  The plan was kind of a "no plan" plan....sleep in and in the morning, find a hike within a 1-2 hour radius with prime foliage and awesome views.

Bear Mountain was a state park Adam kept referring to just over the border in New York.  He had never been but knew it received high marks as far as viewpoints and accessibility went.  We had been toying around with the idea of the Catskills but ended up opting for Bear Mountain, a supposedly scenic hike closer than the Catskills, located just an hour from Adam's house in Norwalk, Connecticut.

Fall Camping Tips - Camping in New Hampshire

It is pretty standard for me to make some last-minute decision to drive up north on a Friday night.   

This past weekend, I had a friend's daughter's first birthday party in the middle of the day Saturday which clashed with a weekend I was planning to see the foliage and drive Kancamagus Highway.  I wanted to be there for this special little girl's first birthday, but at the same time peak foliage waits for no one.  I had to find a way to do both.  

Kancamagus Highway, NH - New England's Best Fall Foliage Drive

If there is a New England fall foliage drive to slay them all, this is it.  

New England is famous for its fall foliage and this drive is probably the most famous within the border of these 6 states.  It's often rated New England's Best Scenic Drive and has made its way onto the Travel Channel.  It's one of New Hampshire's National Scenic Byways, running east to west through the White Mountains, climbing to 3,000' at the summit of Mount Kancamagus.  It's 34.5 miles of "basic bitch", foliage obsessed, bean boots and crunchy leaves New England nostalgic heaven. 

Fall Hike up Mount Tecumseh via Waterville Valley - New Hampshire's Smallest 48

I am so out of order.  So out of the adventure order. 

I try to blog in the sequence that I travel but sometimes life gets oh so good and I play a lot more than I can blog.  Don't get me wrong, it is a good problem to have when you are enjoying life so much in the present moment you forget to write about it in the past tense.  

So because of all my adventures, I have this sweet lovely yet daunting backlog of posts to share with you.  This one, this post could not wait.  The fall foliage is peak right now in northern New England and this has to be my favorite hike to date.  This may be the best weekend I have had in a long time.  So excuse me as I jump around, but I needed to share this amazing morning in New Hampshire with you. 

Stowe Pinnacle Hike, Vermont

I love fall and damn do I love Vermont.    So yes, you guessed it, I really really love fall in Vermont.  

There is something about the colors here, the sweeping panoramic views, the green mountains marking the horizon, and of course, the terrific outdoorsy people.  There is so much charm and color wrapped into one beautiful state that it is simply impossible to visit Vermont and not fall in love, especially between the months of September and October.  Its one of those towns you visit and you say "yep, I could live here" and then you spend the next five years looking at real estate listings for properties you can't afford. Guilty as charged. 

Mt. Aire - Millcreek Canyon, Utah

Pumpkin Beer on the summit of Mt. Aire

My plane landed in Utah at 10:15 and truth be told, I was out on the trails by 12:00.  I was itching to be back in the Wasatch, hiking Utah's beautiful mountains at the edge of Salt Lake City.  When trying to pick out a hike, I knew I wanted something I hadn't done, something close to the city, a shorter distance (but still a workout), and with some great fall colors and a view.  I put out a "call to action" on Instagram and when someone suggested Mt. Aire, I was sold.  Pretty views, peak, 4 miles round trip, steep and steady, just next door in Utah's Millcreek Canyon.  

Hiking Devil's Hopyard State Park - East Haddam, CT

Remember what it all looked like before the Arctic Blast and 1+ foot of snow? Me either.  Today's post is a reminder that winter won't last forever and New England winters are worth muscling through for those perfect spring, summers, and autumns.  Don't get me wrong.... winter has its moments (raise your hands fellow skiers) but so far 2018 has been brutally cold.  A week where we only saw single digits and teens, and then there were the weekends of feels like in the negatives.  But things are looking up just like the temperature this week.  So in salute of warmer weather, I am sharing a local hiking gem right here in Connecticut, Devils Hopyard Start Park. 

KW Fall Favorites - hikes, bikes, beers and drives

New England just received its first official snowfall.  Up to a foot in the northwestern portion of the state, and a mere dusting here on the shoreline.   Here in Stonington, it was just enough to shut down major highways when our bridges turned into a sheet of ice.  So as the snow falls and the accidents pile up, let's take a quick second to reminisce about fall (because who is ready to let go of the beautiful leaves and warm afternoons yet? Not I).  

Fall is one of the best times of year and it goes by so fast.  I've been lucky enough to spend many October months in New England, and a few out west.  Last year, I wrote a post on the fall foliage of Utah, and this year, I am updating the list throwing in some New England gems with the bunch.  Below, I have included some of my favorites as a farewell to fall.  Featuring some of the best hikes, drives, and the most quaint towns, this list below is some of my favorite things about fall from New Hampshire to Utah.   Enjoy. 

Oktoberfest at Snowbird (Utah)
To start the best of Fall on KW list, we have Snowbird's Oktoberfest.  Snowbird Ski Resort in Utah is beautiful during the fall months and Oktoberfest makes the scenery even better.  Beer, bratz and the start of the foliage in Utah, this is the perfect way to kick off fall in the west. Be warned it can get crowded as Snowbird's Oktoberfest was voted one of America's 10 Best Oktoberfests by Men's Journal Magazine. Snowbird's Annual Oktoberfest attracts over 60,000 visitors and has grown to become one of the largest festivals in Utah.

Bryce Canyon National Park (Utah)
Bryce Canyon makes the list not for its fall foliage, but the chance to see snow covered Hoodoos and a less crowded park.  Bryce is my favorite National Park and it is so fun to visit with that chilly in the air as you hike the loop among the hoodoos.  Catch this in the fall where there are less visitor's and see the snow-capped hoodoos down in the amphitheater.  Be warned, because of the higher altitude this park can be quite cool in the park, bundle up and anticipate snow.

B.F. Clydes Cider Mill - Old Mystic

It's fall so and the leaves are turning and PSLs haven taken over the nation.  So, let's rave about some boozy cider and a historic cider mill.  Today we are talking about a mill in Old Mystic, the iconic Fall New England day trip, B.F. Clydes.

Oh, B.F. Clydes.  I had such high expectations for you.  I have heard so many amazing things about your boozy cider and oh-so-New-England vibe.  Here are my first impressions on my visit:  The cider was good (really good) and I loved the variety from normal cider, to alcoholic/fermented ciders, to fruit wines.  The setting cute and the history of the place makes it what it is.  You can purchase a variety of locally made goods from dressings to pickled eggs, and a variety of baked goods. 

But the reality was the customer service was awful, the whole operation crowded and confusing (and highly unorganized) and the apple cider donuts were a cold sad mushy interpretation of one of the best things about fall.  The weekends are a zoo and I am sure a trip mid-week would be much more inviting. So now that you have a quick overview,  let's discuss the good, the bad, and the 12% cider.

Applecrest Farm- New Hampshire

Ever been to a farmers market and wish there was also a restaurant?  What if it also had a store, gift shop, apple orchard, horse wagon ride, stuff your own scarecrow station, pumpkin patch and petting zoo?  If you would like to buy some apples and eat a delicious homestyle breakfast before buying local maple syrup and mingling with the cows, this is your place. 

Hiking Mount Mansfield, Vermont

I forgot how beautiful the state of Vermont is.  And I guess I just never fully witnessed how beautiful it is during fall.  I knew Vermont was famous for its covered bridges and foliage, maple syrup and country roads, but I just hadn't witnessed it all as beautifully as I had this weekend.  The leaves were in their prime, and the hues of greens, yellows, reds and oranges were straight from a New England postcard.  While fall in Utah was absolutely beautiful with its shades of yellows and aspens, mountain peaks and alpine lakes, I am convinced the fall in New England just can't be beat.  Oh, those vibrant reds in contrast with all the other hues were just so dreamy.

Driving west from East Burke to Stowe 

Covered bridge on my way to Stowe 

One of the best places to see some awesome fall color is from the "ceiling" of Vermont. From it's highest peak, the "chin" of Mount Mansfield, you can see the amazing gradient of rocky peaks, changing to dense evergreens, before putting on a show of oranges, yellows, and reds before mixing more mixes of autumn foliage and green in the rolling hills of Vermont.

So far, I am half way through summiting the six New England Peaks.  I have hiked the highest peaks in Massachusetts, Connecticut, and New Hampshire, with only Vermont, Maine, and Rhode Island left.  I had plans to head to Vermont for the weekend to join a bunch of friends mountain biking at Kingdom Trails in East Burke, Vermont (that's an entirely awesome post next on the blog).  When I saw that the Town of Stowe and trailhead to Mount Mansfield was only about 1.5 hours away from where I was staying, I decided to seize the opportunity. I left the mountain biking crew to spend Saturdays on a solo hike with Olive- to the top of Vermont's highest peak and a "New England 4,000 footer" .

View from Sunset Ridge Trail above the treeline 

Desolation Lake Trail and Overlook - Fall in Big Cottonwood Canyon

I used to think nothing beat the colors of New England Fall.  The deep reds, subtle oranges, and crisp yellows of the New England Autumn just makes your heart leap.  Couple these changing colors with the drop of humidity, warm sunny days followed by cool sweater weather nights, and fall in New England is easily one of my favorite seasons. 

Fall on Desolation Trail  

And then I moved to Utah.  Sure, there is a serious lack of trees, especially here in the city, but a drive to the canyons will solve that.  At the bottom of the canyons you may not be very impressed, but as you climb up the canyon, the colors will POP.  The yellows of Utah are the most stunning to me, and coupled with the reds and the oranges, the mountain looks like they are on fire.  

The one thing I am missing is that drop in temperature and cooler nights.  Downtown, temperatures were still hitting the 90s during the day, and nights were still AC weather.  I am waiting for that crisp New England weather so I can start baking apple pies. 

The canyons are the perfect place to escape some of that city heat, and see Utah's amazing fall colors. And while you can drive the Aspen Loop, or drive up and down the canyons, a long hike through the woods is the best way to experience Autumn in the American West. 

 I am officially in love with Autumn Aspens 

Desolation Lake and Overlook
(Desolation Trail and Wasatch Crest Trail Spine )

Trailhead:  Mill D North, Big Cottonwood Canyon    Season:  Mid summer to fall (due to high altitude snow accumulation) (This hike was September 26th, perfect time for fall leaves).   Distance:  7.4 RT to the lake, 8.75 RT to get to the ridge and back.   Elevation:  Start at 7,927' to 9,577' (2,303' gain).   Dogs: No - Big Cottonwood Canyon Protected SLC watershed.   Kids: Maybe, easy trail to follow but due to its long distance I would say no.    Camera:  Nikon 3200 DSLR

Mill D Trailhead 

The trail starts off at the Mill D trail head at the top of the canyon  There is a large parking area on both sides of the street.  It is quite a ways up the canyon so be patient and drive carefully up the canyon.

Mill D Trail head and Desolation Trail 

Big Cottonwood Canyon

The trail is well defined and easy to follow. For the first half mile, keep your eyes on the gorgeous peak to your right. 

Big Cottonwood Canyon

Fall in Big Cottonwood Canyon

When you reach a junction to go left towards Dog Lake or right to Desolation Lake, keep right to Desolation Lake.  If you want to keep the hike short, Dog Lake is an okay option (you can check out my Dog Lake post here).  Desolation is much prettier and is worth the extra hike. Do note that this is a very popular downhill mountain bike trail.  You will encounter a lot of mountain bikers coming down the narrow section of the trail- keep your eyes open and share the trail. 

Desolation Trail to Dog Lake or Desolation Lake 

Fall on Desolation Trail  

Fall on Desolation Trail  

The reds, greens and yellows in this field were fall perfection.  

Moose on the Desolation Trail  

I have a serious Moose fear (like, I have nightmares about hiking with moose).  They are beautiful and I enjoy watching them, but I have a large fear of coming around the corner to an aggressive moose on a trail.  Moose are not normally aggressive, but can when:  it is a female with her calf, or males during the mating season (rut) in the fall.  I came around the corner to see this female moose laying about 20' off the trail with her calf.  Thankfully her calf was older, and this was a popular trail with a lot of hikers and bikers in front of me.  I nervously and briskly walked by and survived to tell the tale. 

Desolation Lake 

Finally you reach Desolation. This gorgeous and quiet lake had an emerald hue and was the perfect place to have lunch and relax before climbing the last half mile to the ridge. 

Desolation Lake 

Desolation Lake 

Desolation Trail

Desolation Lake and Trail

Heading up to the ridge adds another mile+, but is so completely worth it.  Looking back, the view of the lake and the peaks, with the fall colors is breath taking.  

Desolation Trail

Desolation Trail meets the Crest Trail

At the Ridge !

When you reach the ridge you will have cell service again, and see park city on one side, and the Desolation Lake basin on the other side.  You will also see a lot of mountain bikers coming across the ridge and down the Desolation trail. 

Park City below the ridge 

Desolation Lake 

This is the perfect long day hike to see fall. The aspens, the lake, the meadows and the wildlife- this is a perfect way to spend a weekend. I would plan this hike ASAP as the colors wont last, and snow will be making its way to the top of the canyons soon. 

Happy Hiking,

Katie 

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